3000 Express Side Vent Core Repair

[DiverDux]

Source of the post On my boat, the bottom edge of the cut out is only about 2in deep and is sealed off inside at the chine. Water shouldn't be able to get to the next section of coring below. It has a much better chance of going forward or aft.

bnc-
I'm having difficulty visualizing your explanation. Can you clarify?

[DiverDux]

Source of the post On my boat, the bottom edge of the cut out is only about 2in deep and is sealed off inside at the chine. Water shouldn't be able to get to the next section of coring below. It has a much better chance of going forward or aft.

Hi bnc-
I'm having difficulty visualizing your explanation. Can you clarify?
Thanks,
Ed

[DiverDux]

Source of the post On my boat, the bottom edge of the cut out is only about 2in deep and is sealed off inside at the chine. Water shouldn't be able to get to the next section of coring below. It has a much better chance of going forward or aft.

Hi bnc-
I am having difficulty visualizing your explanation. Can you clarify?
Thanks,
Ed

[DiverDux]

Sorry about the duplicate posts.

[Gali]

Thanks Ed.

I think thats the plan, so seal it to get me through the summer as I am pushing to get the boat in before next weekend. It should be able to get me through the summer and then I can spend the time to do it right once and for all. The windshield issues I plan on tackling at the dock, just can't find any replacement gasket anywhere, and its a very thick bead to fill those gaps with all silicone, not sure how it would ever even dry, were talking at least 5+ layers of silicone. I think thats the only areas I get occasionally dripping into the cabin, I redid all my cabin windows.

Source of the post

Source of the post Ill keep an eye on this. I think this is in my very near future. I dont have any moisture readings/or leaks, but one started getting loose ontop and I need to reseal it. I am thinking if I put in the effort to reseal may as well remove, clean up, and reattach properly on both sides. I'd like to get it done in the next few days prior to going in the water. What is your plan to seal the edge around the vent once your repair is complete?

Hi Gail-
Pursuit did not seal the cut out for the vent. The wood coring is exposed and the adhesive/caulk that the factory used to install the vent cover is all that is keeping water from accessing the core. I am going seal my repair with thickened poly resin and then install the vent cover with a good adhesive calk such as Lifecaulk, 4200 or 4000 UV.

If you are going to seal yours with caulking, understand that it will be a temporary fix. I would seriously consider a more permanent fix similar to what I am doing. That caulk will eventually fail and you will have to deal with the resulting rot. If you seal it with caulk to get you through the summer, you could address the issue over the winter.
Ed

[DiverDux]

Hi Gail-
Yes, I would think that sealing the vent cover is an effective, temporary fix that should get you through the summer. Just be sure to use an adhesive/sealant that is removable. Do not use 5200!! I like Lifecaulk. Others will suggest 4200 or 4000 UV. I like the LC as it stays a bit more flexible. It really is a matter of preference though.
I'm not sure if the windshield has a gasket. It could possibly be bedded with butyl tape or perhaps Dolfinite. I do not know this for sure, but it is something to look into. Hopefully someone else will see this and offer a solid suggestion.

[DiverDux]

Hello all-
Removed the port side vent cover and removed the rotted wood. I now understand what bnc mentioned about a "chine" just below the bottom of the vent opening. Going to reconsider what I use to fill the small gap where the wood coring is rotted away.
Ed

[Woodworker2001]

F8D68887-6E5F-4776-8A44-7E051BEE590F.jpeg

So the wet coring only goes down to here and can go no further?

[DiverDux]

Actually, I'm not sure I would t say that. If that, let's call it a lip, is sealed together (fiberglassed) on the bottom (where your arrow is pointed,) then yes, it could restrict the downward movement of water. If not, then water would be able to intrude into the lower section of the hull. Fingers crossed here. I can't tell if it is actually glassed together or not.

I do know that the core is compromised aft of the opening above the bottom curve. I am going to backfill this area as well as the top where the coring is rotted.

The hull sounds solid and normal below the arrow, so I am going to repair the area around the vent and leave the lower hull alone. It appears that the only way to access the lower hull core would be to cut away the inside skin. Not interested in going there unless there is an obvious problem. It appears that this is a fix that will keep anything else that may be going on from getting worse. Time will tell.

In the first and second photo, the area that is gray is the inner-skin and the fiberglass backing that gives the vent the finished look is screwed to the inner-skin. Where the bottom of the backing meets the inner-skin, the caulking is compromised. Going to clean that out loosen the screws and recaulk with a good marine grade adhesive caulk (thinking lifecaulk or 4000 UV). I think the water that is finding it's way into the cabin is from this poor caulk seal.

[DiverDux]

Finished the project yesterday. went down and cleaned it up today. I am happy with the results.

I filled the void where the wood was rotted with G/flex. I thickened the epoxy with 404. Worked like a charm. I know I mentioned using a polyester resin, but like most anything i do, things change as the project moves forward. I installed the vent cover with 4200 and cleaned the edge with acetone. I put a finish caulk seal around the edge with 4000 UV.
It isn't pretty, but it is solid and sealed up tight. Water will no longer be an issue with the vents.

A few photos...