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3000 Express Projects

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bnc
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Postby bnc » Wed Jan 13, 2021 7:40 pm

Woodworker2001 wrote:Source of the post

Correct. After filling the backside, I only had to use a small amount of caulk to stick them to the boat. I ran a continuous bead all the way around vs the 2 blobs the factory used originally.


Did you block off and just fill around the edges or did you also fill down the center on the back side?


I just filled around the outer edge. The center is raised a bit, I didn't need to block it off. I added some filler to the epoxy, but it was runny enough to self level.
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Postby bnc » Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:16 am

Boat is out of storage for the season! Time to get some projects completed before splashing it.

Project #1:
My hatch lift relays were sketchy last year, but were pretty reliable about coming back to life. Well this year they are dead. I stuck my head down in there and attempted to tap on them with a stick, no dice. Checked power at the switch, good there.

Whats my best course of action here:
1. Disconnect actuators, lift hatch with ratchet straps?
2. Hot wire actuators to get hatch lifted.

I'm thinking #2, I'm thinking they have some downward tension on them and I'll never get the pins out. Going to replace the 4 relays and 100ft of wire with a single reversing windlass relay once I can get at them. Should be better suited to the environment.

Project #2
Reseal wiper wire holes under windshield. Starboard side is dripping on headliner a bit.

Any one have any pointers here? Looks like there is a life of screw across the bottom of the windshield frame. Also appears I can take apart the front 2 panels of windshield without disturbing the curved side pieces.

Dan1
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Postby Dan1 » Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:51 am

The design and install of those hatch relays was terrible, open connections down low in the bilge in a salty moist environment leaving no access to the ER in an emergency when they fail, there was enough wiring on mine to lift the entire panel up high and enclose it all in a waterproof box with access thru a deckplate from above,I also fitted the bonding junction in there.
I have permanent relay bypass switches that can be reached from the deck thru the deckplate in the event of failure.

If you can drop down the center hatch and access the the lift rams the wiring has a crimp join in the harness at the ram motor, you could cut the wiring there and hot wire the actuators, if you can reach the relays you could hot wire it from there, raising the hatch with ratchet straps will be tricky (and dangerous) but if you have no alternative and can get a jack in there you could lift the hatch slightly to relieve the pressure on actuator pins and jack/ratchet strap the hatch open,its really heavy -be careful.

All of the above is assuming you don't have a generator in there (I have) and cant reach anything thru the center hatch.

Are both relays not working? Its one positive power feed from the switch/circuit breaker and one negative from the bus bar (yellow wires located behind the access panel, behind the seat - below the switch panel in the cabin) for both to fail it could be the the wiring is loose on the bus bar, When you say you “ Checked power at the switch” it's a circuit breaker not a switch and may have failed, check power on both sides of that.

Good luck!

The wiring for both wipers runs down the split in the windshield on the port side,pry the rubber separator out on the inside and you will see the wires running thru the frame into the cabin (the wiring runs across the top of the headliner) Pursuit didn't seal that hole -easy fix.

Mark T redid all his windshield screws a few years back and may have some input for you.
IMG_0578.JPG
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Postby bnc » Mon Apr 19, 2021 8:16 pm

Dan1: That setup looks much better than factory.

After further investigation: I have power at the switch / CB, but when the switch is activated, the voltage drops to zero, even on the feed side of the CB. Relays don't even attempt to click in either direction.

It appears that switch is fed from the terminal strip above the relays. Im going to guess that the feed wire is corroded and barely holding on. I'll bypass it tomorrow before I attempt to crawl down into the belly. Luckily no genset.

I was able to get my fingers on the relays and wiggle most of the spade terminals.

Anyone ever replace the rubber gaskets on their windshields? Any ideas on what and where to get new ones?

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Postby Woodworker2001 » Tue Apr 20, 2021 5:30 pm

I just redid all my window screws and ran a bead of life caulk along the bottom of the windshield. Just pull the black rubber screw cover on the windshield and that exposes the screws. I hadn’t considered the hole where the wiper motor wires runs down. I will have to look at that. Once you pull the screws and caulk them you can run a new bead of caulk around the bottom of the windshield. I also replaced the screw cover molding. It was about 100$ for 24 foot of it but I had large gaps at the end and the lip that holds it in came off when removing it (I wasn’t the most carful as I had decided to replace already)

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Postby Woodworker2001 » Tue Apr 20, 2021 5:31 pm

Dan1 that setup is great. You also included your bonding bus it appears as well?

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Postby Dan1 » Tue Apr 20, 2021 7:53 pm

BNC, Have you tried removing the actuator switch on the gunnel and bypassing it? The connections on the wiring are not sealed and may be compromised.

Woodworker, yes bonding bus is in there as well.

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Postby bnc » Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:50 pm

Dan1 wrote:Source of the post BNC, Have you tried removing the actuator switch on the gunnel and bypassing it? The connections on the wiring are not sealed and may be compromised.


Crisis averted, for now. I ran a jumper from the washdown pump switch to feed power to my hatch lifter switch. Works as expected. I still plan on replacing those relays with a windlass relay now that I can get to them. I'll run new wires up to the switch or at least re-terminate everything.

20 year old boats...

Woodworker: Where did you buy your windshield gaskets from?

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Postby Woodworker2001 » Tue Apr 20, 2021 9:11 pm

http://205.209.45.63/BigSummit/pomp.nsf ... enDocument

I think it ended up 4.50$/ foot. I emailed them and ordered through them direct

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Postby bnc » Sun Apr 25, 2021 4:10 pm

New and improved hatch relay: The feed wire going to the switch was pretty wasted from corrosion creeping up the jacket. I was able to cut it back and find good wire though. Re-terminated everything and its working well again.

IMG_6564.jpeg


Got my windshield resealed as well. Underneath the front 2 panels with special attention to the wiper wire penetrations. The panels have to be slid up as they are all inter-locked with each other. I slid them up just enough to get in there and clean out the old sealant.
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