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3000 Express Projects

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DiverDux
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Home Port: Fairpot Harbor, Ohio
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Postby DiverDux » Sun May 24, 2020 11:13 pm

Okay then. You'll sleep well kmowing that they are on there solid. I feel the same way about the cut out on my boat. It's epoxied in solid, so I doubt I'll ever have to remove them either. Nice feeling that the job is complete! Good job!!
“Only the mountain has lived long enough to listen objectively to the howl of the wolf.”
― Aldo Leopold


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bnc
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Postby bnc » Mon May 25, 2020 11:01 am

58316F52-0F9A-4F05-86CB-A122D4DC5C8D.jpeg

F9B34D4F-3DFA-4F9E-A26E-78C1A424E748.jpeg


I’m new to inboard boats, but I feel these rudders should be parallel?
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Dan1
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Postby Dan1 » Thu May 28, 2020 6:25 am

bnc wrote: I’m new to inboard boats, but I feel these rudders should be parallel?

Mine are not perfectly in parallel either.

BNC do you have any more pics of the trailer set up you could share? What make/model of trailer is it?

MarkT
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Postby MarkT » Thu May 28, 2020 8:02 am

Very early in my career I was told rudders should have a slight amount of toe in.

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bnc
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Postby bnc » Thu May 28, 2020 8:10 am

Dan1 wrote:Source of the post
bnc wrote: I’m new to inboard boats, but I feel these rudders should be parallel?

Mine are not perfectly in parallel either.

BNC do you have any more pics of the trailer set up you could share? What make/model of trailer is it?


I'll have to get some more pictures. Trailer is an All-star brand (Miami, FL) 15,000 GVWR triple axle. Not sure I'd recommend this brand trailer if buying new. Rated for 30'-32' boat. I think I measured 27'-28' from bow roller to end of bunk. Its a typical standard I-beam bunk trailer. Props are pretty close to the ground, wouldn't recommend moving the boat with the props on. Rudders seem to have enough clearance. Shafts are close to the rear cross member, but are fine. We weighed my boat at 14,500 lbs loaded on trailer. Mine has 5.7L mercruisers with a tower. Approx 1/4 tank of fuel at the time. Trailer is 1,600 LBS. Pursuit is off a little on their 10,600 dry weight number.

I spoke to another guy with the same trailer, and he had added spacers under his bunk brackets to get the boat up some so he could trailer with the props on.

He also added flapper valves inside his exhausts to keep the water out when backing down the ramp. He told me the rear of the boat will dip low enough to allow water to force its way up into the manifolds, which the engines will gladly suck in.

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bnc
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Postby bnc » Thu May 28, 2020 8:15 am

MarkT wrote:Source of the post Very early in my career I was told rudders should have a slight amount of toe in.


I did some more research and found they need toe-in to avoid flutter. I saw a Cabo spec sheet on THT that specified 2-1/2in of toe at the trailing edge over the nominal centerline dimension at the shafts. By eye, Looks about right on my boat.

Dan1
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Postby Dan1 » Sat May 30, 2020 7:09 am

bnc wrote:
Dan1 wrote:Source of the post
bnc wrote: I’m new to inboard boats, but I feel these rudders should be parallel?

Mine are not perfectly in parallel either.

BNC do you have any more pics of the trailer set up you could share? What make/model of trailer is it?


I'll have to get some more pictures. Trailer is an All-star brand (Miami, FL) 15,000 GVWR triple axle. Not sure I'd recommend this brand trailer if buying new. Rated for 30'-32' boat. I think I measured 27'-28' from bow roller to end of bunk. Its a typical standard I-beam bunk trailer. Props are pretty close to the ground, wouldn't recommend moving the boat with the props on. Rudders seem to have enough clearance. Shafts are close to the rear cross member, but are fine. We weighed my boat at 14,500 lbs loaded on trailer. Mine has 5.7L mercruisers with a tower. Approx 1/4 tank of fuel at the time. Trailer is 1,600 LBS. Pursuit is off a little on their 10,600 dry weight number.

I spoke to another guy with the same trailer, and he had added spacers under his bunk brackets to get the boat up some so he could trailer with the props on.

He also added flapper valves inside his exhausts to keep the water out when backing down the ramp. He told me the rear of the boat will dip low enough to allow water to force its way up into the manifolds, which the engines will gladly suck in.


Thanks,I have a trailer for the boat - Ive only ever dropped the boat onto it with a tami lift and only towed it a few miles.If you have some pics of the bunk layout on yours I'd like to compare the two

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bnc
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Postby bnc » Sat May 30, 2020 2:34 pm

Dan1 wrote:Source of the post
bnc wrote:
Dan1 wrote:Source of the post
bnc wrote: I’m new to inboard boats, but I feel these rudders should be parallel?

Mine are not perfectly in parallel either.

BNC do you have any more pics of the trailer set up you could share? What make/model of trailer is it?


I'll have to get some more pictures. Trailer is an All-star brand (Miami, FL) 15,000 GVWR triple axle. Not sure I'd recommend this brand trailer if buying new. Rated for 30'-32' boat. I think I measured 27'-28' from bow roller to end of bunk. Its a typical standard I-beam bunk trailer. Props are pretty close to the ground, wouldn't recommend moving the boat with the props on. Rudders seem to have enough clearance. Shafts are close to the rear cross member, but are fine. We weighed my boat at 14,500 lbs loaded on trailer. Mine has 5.7L mercruisers with a tower. Approx 1/4 tank of fuel at the time. Trailer is 1,600 LBS. Pursuit is off a little on their 10,600 dry weight number.

I spoke to another guy with the same trailer, and he had added spacers under his bunk brackets to get the boat up some so he could trailer with the props on.

He also added flapper valves inside his exhausts to keep the water out when backing down the ramp. He told me the rear of the boat will dip low enough to allow water to force its way up into the manifolds, which the engines will gladly suck in.


Thanks,I have a trailer for the boat - Ive only ever dropped the boat onto it with a tami lift and only towed it a few miles.If you have some pics of the bunk layout on yours I'd like to compare the two


A few pics of my trailer setup:

IMG_5733.jpeg

IMG_5734.jpeg

IMG_5735.jpeg

IMG_5736.jpeg
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bnc
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Postby bnc » Sat May 30, 2020 2:40 pm

Boat is in the water:

Unfortunately, I have an issue with the starboard engine. Getting the guardian alarm over 1100 rpm. Goes away when brought back down to idle. Need to find someone to code scan it. We had the same issue when we surveyed / sea trialed. Seller had a mechanic fix it, turned out to be the raw water pressure sensor (on the tranny cooler at rear of engines). The plug on both engines for that sensor were loose, so I replaced them. I assume the sensor issue has been corrected and I'm onto something new now.

My gas tank vent is also plugged on the port side. Couldn't get it to take gas very fast. Owning a boat is so much fun.

Can any one recommend a merc mechanic in NE Ohio?

IMG_5730.jpeg

IMG_5727.jpeg
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Dan1
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Postby Dan1 » Sun May 31, 2020 7:33 am

bnc wrote:A few pics of my trailer setup:

Thanks, very similar setup to mine -I remove the props and rudders to move it around (once every four years when I haul it and take the boat home)

Your boat looks great! Looking at your through hull on the Starb side (the large one) its just above the waterline, mine was lower, and permanently submerged, that is why I ended up doing the mods I did.

The three through hulls on the Port side where the same, all just below the waterline.

If you ever have to change out the two on the Starb side for the aft bilge pump and fishbox its doable but tricky,I replaced mine with these from gemlux

https://www.gemlux.com/78003

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