Hatch Lifters

[MarkT]

I wanted to post this for anyone having Warner Linear Actuators, hatch lifters. Those of us with Pursuit 30 Offshore and 3000 and 3400 Express' have them and others may also. I have seen them mounted with the motor down low and also up high, upside down. I did not want to mount them upside down for two reasons. Wiring could be a pain and I believe they would still hit the exhaust tube. My interest in these came about because of an exhaust tube interference problem with the port engine. I have the Cummins 4 BTAs but this info can help anyone.

On my boat the port exhaust leaves the turbo elbow and ran basically level across the back of the engine until it reached an elbow the dropped it down about 5 inches. and through the aft bulkhead. That tube cleared the top of the hatch lifter motor by fractions of an inch. besides the lifter motor, the sea strainer outlet was also just under the tube, again blocking any way to lower the tube. I had been looking for a solution for some time, having had to rebuild the turbo once and replace it just last year.

I contacted the maker of the lift and was told that changing the orientation of the motor was not possible. I kept digging and e-mailed the service department at the same maker. I was told they could not say if it was possible or not but did receive a manual for it. It sure looked like it was possible but I kept digging some more. I found a video online where a guy was taking one part off a tractor but it was the same model. I saw the base removed and could see it was possible. So I started the project to lower the exhaust tube to get better flow of water out and help the turbo stay dry.

I took it home and took it apart. The orientation is able to change in 30 degree increments. Just remember the top has to be the same direction. I moved the motor 90 degrees toward the outboard side, and then rotated the sea strainer cap 180 degrees to the rear. I cut the elbow out of the exhaust tube and used a silicone elbow there. I had to make up a few inches in length of the tube along the run from the turbo elbow to the silicone elbow and used 5" silicone exhaust hose that for some reason I had laying around in the wrapper for years, along with t bolt hose clamps.

The tube now drops about 4 inches from turbo to elbow and that should help a lot. I also made a support for the exhaust to keep this from sagging. This is how it should have been done at the factory.

[MarkT]

I forgot pics of the actuator.

[Woodworker2001]

Nice. Mine are mounted motors on the top…. Jus the way it was when I bought the boat.

I am a betting man that if anyone has a motor go bad on these that a CIM motor for FIRST robotics competitions is the same motor and only about $30

Nice work mark. Did you have any gear wear or anything inside?

[MarkT]

Thanks Dan. The insides looked perfect. Just added some more grease and back together they went. Tried it the other day, smooth and silent!

[bobbruce]

Thanks guys. Mine are also on top... noisy as heck... gonna try some grease. Anyone have a problem with a cracked dometic sealand vht12 tank like in your pictures. I'm losing vacuum and can put my finger on a crack.Mine I have epoxied twice where I cannot see the crack... next step will be to take it out and fix it like a gentleman.

[MarkT]

Bob, as you can see I did put a little grease on the gears knowing it would spread out with use. I have to say it does seem quieter than the other side now. Sorry I can't help with the tank. But Dan1 had a similar problem and epoxied it. If he sees this he will jump in or you could try to PM him.

[bobbruce]

U guys are awesome

[Woodworker2001]

Source of the post Thanks guys. Mine are also on top... noisy as heck... gonna try some grease. Anyone have a problem with a cracked dometic sealand vht12 tank like in your pictures. I'm losing vacuum and can put my finger on a crack.Mine I have epoxied twice where I cannot see the crack... next step will be to take it out and fix it like a gentleman.

I had leak on mine. Check the bowl bolts and consider rebuilding head. The base seal on mine was in bad shape. Do you still have water in the bowl of the toilet? If not it is a sign the ball is leaking. The base of mine did not have double or locking nuts on it so was loosening up

[bobbruce]

Thx Dan. I have a crack where the pump bolts to the tank. I removed the entire tank this afternoon. I have cleaned the entire area now that I can see it. Lol. Tonite I have applied a layer of epoxy. Gonna let it cure at least 24 hrs . Then I will plug and or cap all the ins and outs,then leal check it on the workbench. If it holds I will have saved about 1000 or more. Then reinstall, fingers crossed.

[MarkT]

Good luck Bob, Hope it works out!